It’s One of the Hardest Reservations in New York, but Once Inside …

Raj kachori, king of snacks, comes to the table at Ambassadors Clubhouse as a grand, taut puff, a balloon in soul, coaxed down to earth. The semolina shell is inflated in hot oil and draped in coolly sweet beetroot yogurt with stripes of chutneys — sour tamarind, chile-blitzed mint — under crunchy k...

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