The Great Neighborhood Bar Is Alive and Well in Chinatown

At Cantonese spots, chefs skilfully deploy XO sauce, a heady condiment forged from dried shellfish and cured ham. At Bar Chucho on the edge of Chinatown, the chef Fidel Caballero goes a step further, adding a Mexican twang. Sure, he uses scallops, but also grasshoppers and smoked corazón for funk an...

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