Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, London WC2: ‘A rollicking list of cosy British joys’ – restaurant review

A s we sit awaiting the beef rib trolley in the Grand Divan dining room at the whoppingly sized , we fizz with ideas of how to describe its wildly unfettered quaintness. “It’s all a bit Hogwarts, isn’t it?” I say to my friend Hugh. The soundproofing is world class, meaning that, even though the pla...

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