Corenucopia by Clare Smyth, London SW1: ‘Posh, calories-be-damned cooking and a dad rock soundtrack’ – restaurant review

I n a room packed with fancy types just off Sloane Square in London, I am eating a £52 plate of dover sole and chips while Status Quo’s Rockin’ All Over the World blasts cheerfully through the room. The chips are very nice, all crunchingly crisp and yieldingly fluffy in all the right places. All 12...

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