‘It’s more exciting than ketchup!’ How chilli crisp became the hottest condiment – and how to make your own

W alk down the specialist aisle in most British supermarkets and you will find a red jar with the kindly face of a middle-aged Chinese woman staring back at you. Branded Lao Gan Ma, meaning “old godmother”, these jars contain chilli crisp – a spicy, crunchy and moreish umami condiment that has made...

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