‘We are not like the rest of the Andalucía’: the rugged charms of Almería, Spain’s desert city

P erched high on the battlements of Almería’s 10th-century , looking over the mosaic of flat roofs tumbling down to the sea, I’m reminded of author Gerald Brenan’s travel classic , and his impression upon arriving in Almería in 1920: “Certainly, it seemed that the sea was doubly Mediterranean here,...

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