From churches and castles to wonderfully weird Portmeirion: exploring Wales’s north-west coast on foot and by train

F rom the graveyard of St Michael’s in Ynys, Wales, the view was ravishing: the Italianate oddity of sparkled on the opposite shore; the peaks of Eryri (Snowdonia) rippled in the distance; and, within the River Dwyryd’s broad swirl, sat the tidal island of Ynys Gifftan. “No one’s lived there for yea...

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