Kayu is pushing the bounds of Filipino cooking, with inspired results

★★ (Very Good) Each buoyant, oil-tanned doughnut at Kayu is piped full of black truffle cream, draped in prosciutto and capped with curls of smoked cheddar. Salty and sweet, peaty and intense, this is chef Paolo Dungca’s telling of an ensaymada, traditionally a small loaf of brioche baked until gol...

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