Crispy eggplant is overrated. Here’s how to appreciate its softer side.

I love the crunchy delight of flash-fried eggplant slices stuffed into a pita with pickled vegetables and tahini, or crisp breaded slabs layered into a classic parm. But dishes that celebrate the softer side of eggplant have given me a deeper appreciation of its mellow flavors: subtly sweet and vege...

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