This humble pub is one of Baltimore’s best restaurants. Go while you can.

★★★ (Outstanding) Plenty of restaurants have open kitchens. What Will Mester is working with at the Wren, his pub in Baltimore’s Fells Point neighborhood, is both less grand and more impressive. In a corner, at the end of a bar lined with whisky, is a one-pan burner, a griddle and a small counterto...

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