Ethiopian pizza sounded like a gimmick. It showed me the soul of D.C.

★ (Good) There were only five or six items on Heat Da Spot Cafe’s menu when it opened in Park View in 2015. Sandwiches, bagels, the usual suspects. But customers wanted more. Specifically, they wanted twin sisters Semret and Timnit Goitom and their older brother Ben Solomon to offer dishes from the...

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