What happens when a beloved food chain reappears in your life? It’s complicated.

In the late 1990s, my Midwestern family gathered in Houston to celebrate my wedding. I remember asking my sister-in-law, Anne-Marie, whether she was enjoying H-town, a sprawling, swampy, oil-money city so markedly different from suburban Omaha. She probably said some nice things, but what I recall m...

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