A German beer tradition brings all-you-can-drink kölsch to the U.S.

LOUISVILLE — Wally App arrives at the tree-lined biergarten behind Holy Grale, a Unitarian church turned craft beer bar in the city’s Highlands neighborhood, at 5:44 p.m. He finds his three childhood friends, who’ve been sitting beneath the parasol at their usual end of a long picnic table since 5:3...

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